DINING OUT
The happy news for devotees of the Vertical Wine Bar Restaurant on
Forest Avenue's Restaurant Row is the added attraction of weekend
brunch to their unique bill of fare.
It's unique because when this unusual establishment was launched,
creative owner/chef Jonathan Pflueger introduced to Laguna Beach a
novel concept in gourmet dining. In his words, "a new menu every
night progressively designed like a wine list from lightest to
richest ... vertically."
An instant attraction for the sophisticated wine aficionado,
Vertical nonetheless has a casual ambience that sets a comfortable
pace for all.
Sidewalk tables allow a view of the passing traffic, and the
appealing interior bar inspires conversation among dedicated wine
buffs.
Personable beverage director Jaime Greer, a connoisseur of
boutique wines, is passionate in his devotion to the entire wine
experience. A compatible wine will enhance a dish. Conversely,
opposing flavors, a strong wine with a mild dish or vice versa, means
one taste will be overwhelmed by the other.
Lunch has been discontinued until next spring. Thus the place
opens weekdays at 4:30 p.m. with an intriguing "intermezzo" menu
which is served until 5:30 p.m., when dinner commences.
You'll discover a range of munchies here: a variety of nuts --
sweet to savory -- interesting salads and such imaginative
presentations as ahi tartare presented with crisp toast points and
livened with whole grain mustard, olive tapenade, capers, chives, red
onions and arugula. Prices start at $1.50 going to $60, $70 and $80
for Sevruga, Osetra and Beluga caviars accompanied with all the
traditional garnishes.
Bearing in mind that every menu is designed daily depending upon
availability of freshest ingredients, you may discover such
imaginative dinner favorites as crispy golden sweetbreads with white
truffle risotto, chanterelle and black trumpet mushroom fricassee;
jumbo sea scallops atop creamy polenta with wilted spinach,
caramelized onion and golden leek threads; Alaskan king salmon with
ginger steamed jasmine rice, sweet pea tendrils, in red miso broth.
Approximate prices range for starters and entrees is about $8 to $28.
The inspired wine menu at this award-winning restaurant is, of
course, equally unique, giving guests the opportunity to savor the
wine that's best with an individual course. For example, "wine
flights" allow a sampling of three vintages of a similar theme, and
there are servings by the bottle, the glass or the 2-ounce taste.
