DINING OUT
The recipient of numerous media accolades since its Laguna Beach
debut in 1992, Natraj continues as the only local restaurant
featuring the tantalizing cuisine of India. Principal Kuljit Singh,
who began as general manager, purchased the attractive little venue
within two years. So dedicated an owner is he, it is not unusual to
catch him running the dining room personally with his charming wife
Rupi, wafting the delectable aromas of tandoori specialties as they
dish up sizzling servings of lamb, chicken, seafood and vegetable
entrees.
Upon seating, delicate, crisp pappadum wafers will be hurried to
your table along with a saucer of creamy homemade yogurt flecked with
vegetable bits as well as a trio of condiments. To temper the fiery
condiment blend of cilantro, lemon, green onion, mint and chilies and
the mildly hot combination of chopped cauliflower and carrots,
there's a tasty crimson fruit sauce redolent of berries. The
extensive menu commences with half a dozen appetizers at $2.95 to
$6.95. A fairly good representation of this category is the assorted
platter of chicken tikka, samosas, seekh kabob and pakoras served
with mint sauce. Of the steaming soup quartet in the $3 to $4 range,
the mildly spiced broth of mulligatawny, lentils strewn with rice and
chicken, is especially outstanding. If salad is your preference,
choose from the house combine of lettuce, tomato and cucumber or
mixed greens with shredded tandoori chicken, $2.95 and $3.95
respectively.
Entrees are a la carte, an amazing 15 vegetarian offerings topping
the list of a dozen each lamb and poultry dishes and an octave of
seafood selections. Each is served with basmati rice. That delectably
fine-grained saffron-infused rice, in fact, rates a separate entree
category, biryani and pillau styles laced with such as shrimp,
chicken, lamb, peas, or vegetables with a crunch of slivered almonds
and sweetness of golden raisins.
Among provocative vegetarian tastes are stir-fried okra seasoned
with cumin, ginger and garlic; eggplant and potatoes with blended
spices; and creamed spinach cooked with cheese cubes. Coconut curry
is a popular embellishment to lamb, chicken and shrimp as are
potatoes and spices called vindaloo, the latter also augmenting a
swordfish choice. For a multi-faceted taste of chicken, lamb and
minced meats spiced with ginger and herbs, the mixed tandoori platter
is a must. It is one of eight specialties of the house which further
includes rack of lamb, jumbo shrimps tandoori and marinated fish
