Glori Fickling
Anastasia, the sophisticated boutique/restaurant on Ocean Avenue, has
enjoyed a well-deserved reputation for fabulous European fashions and
a menu that has invited discriminating diners to enjoy breakfast and
lunch daily since 1996.
Now, principal Amir Garavi has added the further attraction of an
enticing dinner menu bringing the charming cafe-style dining room to
welcoming new heights. Under direction of executive chef Jerry Baker,
who has gained renown for the box suppers that add to the enjoyment
of monthly cinema events at [seven-degrees], an innovative menu is at
the ready to enjoy until 10 p.m. nightly.
To the delight of new and steady guests, the adventuresome bill of
fare was launched at an invitational reception July 10, simultaneous with the introduction of charming general manager Lori Theis, who
arrived from her tenure as wine director at a respected San Francisco
dining establishment. Her personal selection of 18 vintages including
two available by the glass and three bubblies adds beautifully to the
dining experience, each pouring graciously expedited in large,
sparkling goblets. Baker's considerable culinary talent shines well
beyond his unique approach to creative recipes. A mere glance at the
whimsical menu reveals his spontaneous sense of humor. Clearly, this
is one chef who has fun, fun, fun describing his delicious recipes.
Begin your evening with "ying yang thang," a large, shallow bowl
of superlative chilled soup, 1/2 red, 1/2 yellow gleaned from baby
organic tomatoes. Drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and fresh
basil sprinkles, the twin potage is floated with little boccatini
mozzarella "croutons."
Relish the "blast of Peruvian fire" that defines Hawaiian hearts
of palm, delicate slices alternating plump scallops torched by hand
in a yuzu jalapeno vinaigrette. Tender Belgian endive leaves seasoned
with orange chipotle vinaigrette boast savory taste and texture via
candied pistachios and a "crumble o' maytag blue cheese."
"That rack is stacked," describes a quartet of succulent lamb
chops proudly upended, seasoned with mint jalapeno pesto and a sweet
touch of onion marmalade and balsamic syrup. Add to these memorable
appetizers Baker's brandade, delectable clumps of mashed potato
enmeshed with slivers of halibut, crab and rockfish mounded between
crisp La Brea toasts. The exceptionally flavorful dozen
palate-pleasers are tabbed from $6 to $15.
That each perfect portion is picturesquely posed against oversize
