Glori Fickling
A forerunner on the gourmet cuisine scene since launching on March
17, 1998, there is no question that Laguna's enticing French 75
Champagne Bar and Bistro reigns supreme as one of Orange County's
most sophisticated dining destinations.
The flagship venue of restaurateur David Wilhelm's Culinary
Adventures, the establishment features an elegantly tented garden
entry with sparkling crystal chandeliers illuminating tables
appointed with crisp white linens and gleaming place settings. The
two story interior offers private seating in a variety of rooms and
alcoves, each an invitation to gracious dining.
Framed photos of vintage Hollywood stars adorn walls in the cozy
Left Bank room and up the stairs awaits seating surrounded with a
worldwide vintage wines. For celebrity clientele, special parties and
romantics requesting ultimate privacy, an intimately curtained alcove
awaits replete with a secret outdoor staircase.
Recently sharing the evening with a first-time guest recalled
happy memories of the grand opening when the Michael Angelo style
ceiling painted above the capacious bar was unveiled. The whimsical
mural titled "The Champagne War Between the Monkeys and the Cherubs"
was conceived by local artist Russ Butler whose models were local
children.
The whimsy continues as a magical fascination to regulars as well
as newcomers. Beyond all these attractions, however, it is the
superlative menu and gracious service that keeps enchanting an
appreciative entourage. The enticing bill of fare is virtually
unchanged, according to general manager Nadine Hotong, up to and
including the daily quote of rustic dishes inspired by classic French
soul food.
The somewhat trendy entree of veal cheeks, recently introduced by
corporate chef Ryan Adams, was certain to provoke the interest of any
foodie worth her salt. And his tantalizing offering did not
disappoint. Consisting of plump mounds of tender medallions, the
meat had a sensual, somewhat gelatinous texture, very pleasing to
tongue and palate. The dish was appetizingly presented in a large
stainless steel casserole and accompanied with comforting white
polenta wafted with parmesan cheese in an artistic arrangement of
crisp green beans, all floating on a yummy puddle of dunkably
flavorful gravy.
Seafood favorites include steamed black mussels seasoned with
garlic, white wine and creme fraiche, thyme roasted sea bass, salmon
a la Basque with saffron risotto and halibut meuniere. The latter,
