Cheese platters and cheering chatter

On a beautiful spring evening, with the sky tinted watermelon and papaya from the setting sun and the light falling softly on the patio of the Sundried Tomato Café, we sipped our cava (Spanish sparkling wine) and nibbled on a selection of Spanish cheeses and cured meats.

We were at a monthly cheese and wine dinner mingling with a group of foodies from the increasingly sophisticated O.C. and eagerly anticipating the meal to follow. We chatted with the FitzGeralds, Mary and Dee, who were here for the sixth time.

In his words: "This is a unique event because you often see wine and cheese pairings, or wine and food pairings, but never all three together." They have watched it grow from just 16 people to tonight's sell-out of 34.

The fortuitous alliance between two major figures on the Laguna Beach culinary scene ? Marc Jacobs, the creative executive chef at the Sundried Tomato Café and Nancy Milby, director of the Culinary Institute ? is responsible for this event. This was the 10th installation in the series and our first time in attendance.

These dinners feature wine, cheese and cuisine from a different country or region each time. Marc creates the dinner and provides California wines when appropriate. Nancy furnishes the wine as well as all the cheeses. These come from her wine store and cheese shop in the canyon. Tonight, we are taking a virtual tour of Spain.

James Drakeford, the "cheesemeister" from the shop, selects and presents the cheeses for each event. While you enjoy your bubbly, James gives you information about the qualities and style of the cheeses, as you taste them.

Some of these cheeses will reappear in some form in the dinner. They ranged from the more familiar nutty Manchego and the blue Cabrales to the creamy Drunken Goat and buttery sharp Mahon from Minorca. We also sampled Lomo (cured pork) and Serrano ham, which is like a Spanish version of proscuitto.

Dinner is announced and we move inside to be seated by our host at the long tables. Marc, Nancy and James each spoke briefly about the food, wines and cheese that we were about to enjoy, adding another dimension to our appreciation of the experience.