Javier's Cantina and Grill

Javier Sosa's life is an example of the classic American success story. He was born in Tijuana, came to California as a young man and then worked his way up from dishwasher to waiter to manager at Tortilla Flats restaurant in Laguna Beach.

Eventually, with the help of his partner, Mark Post, he opened his own restaurant on Coast Highway, followed by another much larger, elaborately designed version in the Irvine Spectrum. They are planning a move to a beautiful new ocean-view location in Crystal Cove.

Javier's life has always revolved around work. He met his wife Silvia when she was a cook and he was a dishwasher. He met his partner when Mark had a summer job as a waiter and Javier was his manager. His three children all work in the restaurants, and many of his employees have been with him for more than 20 years.

The popularity of Javier's seems to spring from the casual and lively atmosphere, partly attributable to the pitchers of Margaritas on almost every table.

The always-crowded restaurant and the crush of people waiting for tables create a convivial, noisy buzz. Make a reservation if you can. It will cut down on the hang time.

With its ocean view (through the Hotel Laguna parking lot) and its retractable ceiling and patio area in the bar, the feeling is light and airy in most of the rooms.

In the evening, the pale walls take on the tints of the colored lighting. The floors are Mexican tile, and the entire restaurant is filled with plants.

Sipping our beer and munching on the house-made tortilla chips and spicy salsa, we noted that both were much better than the usual commercial versions served in many Mexican restaurants.

Our game plan was to focus on their specialty, which is seafood, rather than the typical American-style Mexican fare, such as quesadillas, tacos and the like.

We began with tostadas of shrimp ceviche. These were three little crispy corn tortillas brushed with sour cream, each topped with a generous portion of very fresh chopped shrimp, marinated in lime juice and combined with bits of jalapeno, onion, tomato, cilantro and chunks of perfectly ripe avocado.

The shrimp were plump and flavorful, and all together the spicy concoction was ambrosial. Other appetizer options include queso fundido, a dish of melted cheese with onions, mushrooms and chorizo served with warm tortillas; seafood nachos and chicken or beef taquitos.