Natraj:It's not just curry

Indian cooking is one of the most artful, varied and complex cuisines in the world, but it seems to have found less favor in Laguna Beach than other ethnic food.

Perhaps this can be attributed to its reputation for spiciness as well as the myth that curry powder (that boring British concoction) is the dominant flavor of Indian food. While there are many dishes called curry, these are created with distinct spice blends that are almost unlimited in their diversity and none bearing any resemblance to that yellow stuff in the bottle. North Indian cooking is known for its delicate flavoring and silky sauces.

The dishes are generally seasoned with mild but highly fragrant spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, mace, nutmeg and clove.

Also characteristic are simple preparations of meat fish and poultry marinated in spiced yogurt for tenderness and then cooked in a very hot tandoori oven (giving it a flavor similar to barbecuing). Indian restaurants here tone down the heat for the American palate or they ask you how hot you like your food.

There is only one Indian restaurant left in Laguna. Natraj has been here for many years, although the original owners sold it in 1992.

One of our favorite things in Indian restaurants is the complimentary starter of pappadums (a paper-thin, deep fried, cracker--like pancake) served with an assortment of sauces. At Natraj, they are served with spicy mint chutney, sweet tamarind sauce and a sour/salty mixed vegetable pickle.

These delicious condiments can be used as dip for the crackers or any of the appetizers. Also served is a dish of raita (a thin yogurt sauce).

We ordered the mixed appetizer plate, which included a samosa (a savory fried pastry with spicy potato filling), vegetable pakoras (a battered cauliflower fritter), an onion bhaji, (a chick-pea flour pancake with onion) and chicken tikka (small pieces of chicken breast cooked in the tandoor).

The menu lists a seekh kabob (ground meat) as part of the appetizer plate but it had gone missing. The bhaji, which is not listed, appeared instead.

The vegetable pakoras were the best of the plate. The samosa, which has often been good here, was not. The outside was neither brown nor crispy, and the filling was tired and pasty. It tasted as if it had been cooked days before and reheated. The chicken tikka was dry and tasteless.