cpt-gossipgourmet08Text13279VJ5 THE GOSSIPING GOURMET
Step off Pacific Coast Highway and be transported to a little bar in Maui without five hours on a plane and with a chunk of change still in your pocket.
Where does this sorcery transpire? — at The Cabana Bar and Grill.
Even though it has the all the kitschy Hawaiiana of hula dancer light fixtures on the bar and palm tree upholstery on the banquettes, it still manages to achieve the casual, open, easygoing atmosphere of the real thing.
We sat down on bamboo chairs at a table with a woven rattan top, under a rotating wooden ceiling fan and looked out past the verandah to a slice of the Pacific. And just like in Hawaii, the meal began with a basket of warm homemade "Wonder Bread."
We had noticed a beautiful brick oven in the kitchen and loaves about to be baked but apparently bread is only served on request so we asked for some and were surprised that the wood-burning oven produced a cottony white loaf. Are they searching that hard for Hawaiian authenticity?
They certainly have achieved it in the service, which is friendly and VERY casual.
Our entrée arrived shortly after we had begun to eat our appetizers. When we pointed this out to our waitress, she asked, "Well, do you want me to put the fish under the heat lamp?" We looked at each other in horror and Elle snatched it from her saying, "No, never mind!" It was not to be a long lingering dinner.
Perhaps, this problem occurred because the appetizers are generously proportioned and we suspect many people make a meal out of them.
The Kung Pao Calamari is sliced calamari steak very lightly dusted with flour and fried. The result was tender and light. Unfortunately, the Kung Pao sauce wasn't spicy and was cloyingly sweet.
The dish was really saved by a fabulous Asian slaw. The crunchy red and white cabbage was punctuated with cilantro and dressed with a Thai-style sauce that was a perfect of balance of sweet and sharp.
It was so good that we requested a side order. Then our spicy ahi soft tacos arrived and, lo and behold, more slaw! No problem. We ate every bit and it almost saved the tacos as well.
Sadly, the little bits of fish were over seasoned and overcooked. If only the fish had been as fresh as the delicious little mini-tortillas. Certainly, both of these appetizers were big enough to share.
