GOURMET:The classics and more at Aliso's Canyon Lodge

When you see the sign for Aliso Creek Inn and make the turn off Coast Highway, you might be put off by the equipment sheds and chain link fences that line the road until you reach a huge parking lot with a giant putting cage off to the left.

But as you get out of your car and round the corner, you are suddenly dazzled by a spectacular vista, a carpet of green lawn descending down to a little bridge across Aliso "Creek," framed by the rugged brush-covered hillside beyond. The soft light of the setting sun highlights the gorgeous panorama.

We were welcomed by two young deer, nonchalantly nibbling flowers at the side of the putting green in front of the restaurant. We wondered if they were on the staff. As we stood and watched them, surrounded by the picturesque landscape, we felt a pleasant calm and an instantaneous mood adjustment descend. So, is this why golfers are so addicted to the sport? Or is it the bar?

As we entered the dark lodge-like atmosphere of the lounge area, complete with stone fireplace and some rather puny antlers affixed to the wall, the congenial crowd seemed to be having a fine time, seated in comfortable chairs fashioned from thick tree branches or at tartan upholstered booths.

They were sipping martinis and enjoying selections from the large appetizer menu, which can make a perfect post-golf supper. The main dining room was closed for a large party, so we were seated here at a table by the window where we could admire the last of the sunset.

The décor made Terry feel as if she were back home in the Colorado Rockies, as did the All-American menu with its shrimp cocktail, Cobb salad, steaks, ribs, baked potatoes and cheesecake.

Of course, there are a few updates to bring us out of the mid-century mind-set, like seared, rare peppered ahi with yellow tomato gazpacho or steamed black mussels with spicy saffron broth.

We can never pass up crab cakes and theirs were very unusual in that they seemed to be all crab and a lot of it. The very fresh tasting, lightly seasoned meat was formed into thick cakes, dusted with flour and fried without any discernible crust. The plate was piped with a spicy tomato cream sauce and garnished with micro-cilantro, which gave them needed texture.