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Edge to breathtaking food at The Cliff

THE GOSSIPING GOURMET:

September 14, 2007|By Elle Harrow and Terry Markowitz

Intrepid alimentary explorers that we are, we have just discovered a restaurant that few natives have ever happened upon, and what a find! Nestled behind Laguna Village, it clings to the cliff just up the hill from the Hotel Laguna.

There has always been a small sandwich place here with a breathtaking view at the back of this rambling collection of shops; but a little more than a year ago, it came under new ownership and was significantly remodeled. The dining “room” at The Cliff is completely outdoors, as is the cocktail area around a fire pit in the center of the retail area. Only the bar is indoors.

As we were seated at a table on the large terrace, we were mightily impressed with the decor: azure sky tinged with dusky pink, turquoise water frosted with white foam and beige sand dotted with pearl gray rocks.

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The Cliff has a casual dining menu with a nice variety of choices. It was our pleasant and helpful waitress Rebecca who told us the restaurant was under new ownership and was also catering weddings on the lower oceanfront terrace.

With the sunset hanging on the “wall” as a backdrop, we contemplated the menu and simultaneously said, “What about those scallops wasabi?” Ordered individually, each small raw scallop was served with a touch of soy sauce, presented on the half shell and draped with seaweed salad, a sliver of pickled ginger and a dab of wasabi cream. A squeeze of lemon on top of this little bit of heaven provided the last element in this savory blend of salty, sour, spicy and creamy flavors. What a pleasant surprise!

Among the large entree salads was butter lettuce with pears, pecans and cranberries. You have your choice of dressings but the raspberry vinaigrette is the perfect partner. Cold poached salmon comes with baby red potatoes, cucumbers and avocados. There is southwest chicken and a Chinese chicken. Seafood appears in the crab Louie and the grilled shrimp salad. The latter comes with a skewer of five well-spiced, delectable grilled shrimp, half of a thinly sliced avocado, fresh corn and chopped tomatoes in a perky mix of spring greens. Everything tasted very fresh and just right for a warm summer evening.

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