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The Gallivanting Gourmet:

A gastropub to crow about

January 04, 2008|By Elle Harrow and Terry Markowitz
(Page 3 of 3)

Normally, Nicoise refers to a salad but here it is a clever take on a burger. It contains all the ingredients of a tuna Nicoise salad: tuna, potatoes, tomatoes, eggs, onions, olives and green beans — deconstructed. A rare tuna filet rides on a potato roll saddled with tomatoes, sliced eggs and red onion, then slathered with olive tapenade aioli and partnered with green bean fries (sautéed green beans). The whole thing made a mighty tasty mouthful.

Desserts represent Chef Brandon’s playful side with such whimsical titles as “not just a dingdong,” “sub-pop tart with seasonal fruit filling,” and “Irish car ‘bombe’ with Jameson whiskey crème anglaise.” The latter is vanilla gelato with a chocolate center encased in amaretto cookie crumbs and drizzled with a touch of whiskey scented crème anglaise. If you’re old enough to remember it, think of that Italian standby, bisque tortoni. The fresh homemade gelato has a very creamy smooth texture and rich taste accented by the crunchy almond flavored crumbs, in a word, yummy.

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This is a bustling, noisy neighborhood spot for good food and good fun and to help you enjoy your evening, plus they have one of the most impressive beer menus around.

IF YOU GO

WHAT: The Crow Bar and Kitchen (949) 675-0070

WHERE: 2325 E. Coast Hwy., Corona Del Mar

WHEN: 7 days, 5 p.m. to midnight

Saturday and Sunday: brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

PRICES:

Appetizers: $3 to $14

Entrées: $8 to $29

Desserts: $8

WINE:

Bottles: $26 to $230

By the glass: $6 to $17

Corkage Fee: $20

BEER:

Draft $7.50

Bottles $6 to $27


ELLE HARROW and TERRY MARKOWITZ owned a la Carte for 20 years and can be reached at themarkos755@yahoo.com.

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