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Where Javier’s left off

January 18, 2008|By Elle Harrow and Terry Markowitz

Viva la cocina Mexicana! Javier’s packed its bags, went up north and crossed the border to Newport Coast and then, without a moment’s down time, El Callejon opened in its place. The new owners literally stepped in and took over in a single day, so the décor, dishware and atmosphere will be completely familiar to you since it’s exactly the same. The menu also bears a strong resemblance to the previous one. A traditional Mexican restaurant, it features the expected tacos, enchiladas, tamales, quesadillas etc. as well as chicken, meat and seafood entrées prepared in a variety of sauces.

El Callejon is a family-owned restaurant with branches in Vista, Encinitas and San Antonio. They are most famous for their margaritas, made from scratch. Unfortunately, since we ate there on its opening day, we were not able to taste them as their liquor license hadn’t arrived, but they do have it now!

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Considering how expensive rents are downtown, we assume they needed to open as soon as possible in their high-profile location; so, as with all new restaurants, they are still a little rough around the edges but as they are experienced in the business, we are sure the kinks will be worked out very soon. New restaurants in Laguna are few and far between, and we were eager to be the first to review it for you.

The usual chips and salsa were not at all usual; they were actually extremely good. The chips were clearly freshly fried and not a bit greasy, and the two salsas were excellent. The red salsa was, in fact, fresh pico de gallo, not the canned tomatoey sauce that is so prevalent; and the green sauce was irresistible with a hint of sweetness to balance the acid and the perfect touch of heat.

The organization of the menu makes it a little difficult to read, so take the time to look it over carefully. You can find what you want eventually.

For appetizers, you can get guacamole, queso fundido, shrimp cocktail and chicken tacos but you can also try some traditional but less frequently seen choices such as: quesadillas fritas (deep fried) filled with chorizo and potato or chicken and rajas (strips of fresh poblanos in a thick floury cream sauce) or cebollitas Cambray (grilled green onions prepared with lemon and Maggi sauce).

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