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The Gossiping Gourmet:

Get breakfast for dinner, or any old time

October 17, 2008|By Elle Harrow and Terry Markowitz

Emily, Terry’s daughter, loves breakfast for dinner and so does Elle’s sweetie, Tim.

In fact, lots of people like this rearrangement of the daily dining ritual, but in this town there doesn’t seem to be any place that caters to these antipodal appetites, except for The Pacific Whey Café in Crystal Cove.

So, while you might chow down on old-fashioned meatloaf or chicken Florentine marinara, they can dig into bacon and eggs or buckwheat hotcakes. Not only can you have breakfast for dinner, but also you can get homemade chili or beef stroganoff at 10:30 a.m.

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In addition to the fact that you can order just about everything all day long, the food is pretty tasty, portions are generous and their burger is one of the best in town. If you actually eat dinner at dinner time, the prices are quite reasonable; but they serve only until 8 p.m., and the plates and utensils are all disposable.

In spite of the casual quality of the tableware and the fact that you order at the counter, the café is very attractive and features a large tree-filled patio and an ocean view, albeit, beyond the parking lot.

The Pacific Whey Café has design touches of a French brasserie that has mated with an open California-style eatery. The very high ceiling, painted silver with embossed molding, is reminiscent of turn-of-the century pressed tin. French art posters adorn some of the walls.

Ceiling fans and wooden tables with marble tops and assorted chandeliers complete the Gallic picture; but floor to ceiling windows facing out to the sea and giant potted olive trees with tiny twinkling lights are all California.

Anachronistically, flanking the patio doors are two giant silver throne chairs that seem to be awaiting the arrival of some royal personages.

Pacific Whey is also a bakery and, as you wait in line to place your order, you can drool beside a glass case filled with tasty pastries: cookies, brownies, lemon bars and muffins to name a few.

They have also jumped on the cupcake express, the hottest trend in sweets since Pinkberry froyo. Cream puffs and éclairs, crème brûlée bread pudding and deep dish apple pie, flourless chocolate torte and carrot cake tempt you to just skip your meal altogether and go straight to dessert.

The breakfast menu offers a large variety of omelets or classics like eggs Benedict and roast beef hash.

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