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Surfing Soapbox: Sea's beauty inspires action

January 27, 2011|By James Pribram

After a day like today there's nothing much else to write about it. It's so amazing how beautiful a day it can be in Laguna Beach in late January.

While in other parts of the world snowflakes are falling and streets are flooding, we have been blessed with two weeks of summer-like conditions. Wednesday was even nicer, with the slight offshore wind blowing its own version of snowflakes (texture) across the ocean's surface.

I love the way that looks. It's like poetry in motion — small waves are breaking, and the mist of the wind blows behind them, the sunlight illuminates through them and the waves look transparent.

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I've never felt closer to anything in my life. Not God, not a woman.

When I said that to a friend, he replied, "But nature and its beauty are the makings of God."

I agree with that. It's no wonder so many people care so dearly about our oceans. Especially after witnessing a day like this, when it seems surfing and stand-up paddling can't get any better, but it does.

Then a pod of dolphins swims past, and I am reminded how I have put my life on the line in trying to rescue dolphins from being slaughtered in Taiji, Japan.

I cannot fathom some law, ban or whatever it may be taking away my freedom of surfing or that of stand-up paddling, the way fishing was taken away from the residents of this town.

It just doesn't seem right.

There's got to be a better way.

Peace.

JAMES PRIBRAM is a Laguna Beach native, professional surfer and John Kelly Environmental Award winner. His websites include AlohaSchoolofSurfing and ECOWarrior Surf.com. He can be reached at Jamo@Aloha SchoolofSurfing.com.

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